Monday, April 14, 2014

Hue & the Royal Tombs

Hue, located near the picturesque Perfume River, is about a 3-hour bus ride north of Hoi An. Like many Vietnamese cities, motorbikes are ubiquitous, and when out walking you have to be careful because often there seems to be virtually no traffic regulations. When crossing streets for instance, you must always look both ways because often the motorbikes will be coming at you against the traffic. Pedestrians are advised to walk slowly (i.e., do not panic and do not run!) to make it easier for the oncoming motorbikes to steer clear of you. As you're crossing, with dozens of motorbikes speeding past on both sides, you feel kind of like Moses parting the Red Sea. For Saigon alone, the "motorbike capital of the wold," a 2102 estimate was 4 million motorbikes in a population of 7 million, with 1,300 more motorbikes added to that every day.




For about $5 you can take a 1-hour Perfume River night cruise on one of these dragon boats.



The Perfume River night cruise includes live traditional Vietnamese music.


During the cruise, the boat stops for a while in the middle of the river and some of the passengers light candles and set them adrift in floating paper lanterns. I was told you're supposed to make a wish when you do this, but I didn't know that at the time.









On the outskirts of Hue are the Royal Tombs, built for the rulers of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945). I paid someone in Hue to take me out on his motorcycle for a morning to visit some of these tombs, and then took this picture in a rural area miles outside of Hue where he'd left me after we ran out of gas. Luckily he found someone on a motorbike to take him to get more, so we were back on the road within about 30 minutes.



This and the subsequent photo were taken at the Royal Tombs. The 5-hour morning excursion turned out to be well worth the time, effort, and money.





While out visiting the Royal Tombs, we stopped this rural roadside stand where incense is made by hand.



Many cafes in Vietnam make a big deal out of a simple glass of Lipton Tea. Served with it are various fruit slices, herbs, and even an unexpected little mound of salt. Surprisingly, these additions greatly improve the taste of the tea. Also, a complimentary glass of Vietnamese green tea is often served with your Lipton.

I spotted a small shop on the outskirts of Hue that makes these fake Ford seats. When traveling in Vietnam, caveat emptor! There are lots of fake products for sale throughout the country. Of course there's the standard fake DVDs, CDs, handbags, clothes, and jewelry, but black market commercialism in Vietnam goes way beyond that realm. There are knock-off novels, Lonely Planet guidebooks, Apple stores, taxi companies, even hotels. One possible scenario is the unsuspecting tourist, newly arrived in Vietnam, reading a fake guidebook while being transported in a taxi of a fake taxi company, heading for a ratty low-end hotel set up so as to mislead one into thinking it's the (much better) hotel several streets over.


Jackfruits are the largest fruits in the world -- up to 3 feet long and 2 feet wide. Originally from the Western Ghats region of India, their taste has been described as a mixture of apple, pineapple, mango, and banana. I've seen packaged jackfruit chips (kind of like potato chips) for sale in Malaysia and here in the Philippines, and recently saw a photo of a jackfruit stand on a street in Manhattan.

Friday, April 11, 2014

Hoi An

Hoi An is about a 1-hour bus ride south of Danang. It's full of tourists, and with good reason as it's a gorgeous town with lots of shops, temples, museums, good resaurants and hotels. At various times throughout the day all traffic is cut off from the old town district and, if you're lucky enough to be there on the 14th of the month, as I was in March, the town has a pre full moon festival. On that night all traffic is cut off from the downtown area, many of the lights are turned low, with candles used instead, and there is live music and dancing.

This guy kept following me, wanting me to go on a motorcycle tour. I passed on the tour, but he let me take his photo anyway.
About 16% of the Vietnamese are Buddhist; and about 80% are atheist, but that figure may be somewhat high.
It's a bit hard to read, but under Made in Vietnam it says 100% "thit cho," which in Vietnamese means "dog."

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

North by train to Nha Trang & Danang


Nha Trang, Vietnam's premier beach town, is about a 9-hour train ride north of Saigon. It's a great place for snorkeling and diving, or just relaxing on the beach.

My room was on the 5th floor at the hotel in Nha Trang and there was no elevator, so an electric cable was used instead to bring my bag up to my room.
These two were having a great time snapping my photo so I decided to return the favor.

The Russians love Nha Trang. They tend to stick together (as in large group tours) and frequent Nha Trang's restaurants, bars, beaches, and pools.

I took this photo in Danang, a large city about 9 hours north of Nha Trang by train. Many Vietnam vets likely know of this city because this is where the war escalation took place when 3,500 Marines arrived in March 1965.
I took this photo inside the Cao Dai Temple in Danang. Cao Daism is "a syncretic religion born in 20th-century Vietnam that contains elements of Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Native Vietnamese Spiritualism, Christianity, and Islam -- as well as a dash of secular enlightenment thrown in for good measure." The temple has beautifully manicured grounds, and while I was inside the temple the guard was very picky about where I stepped as I approached the giant eyeball.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)



Throughout Vietnam you'll see T-shirts for sale with a tangle-of-wires scene, and this written underneath: VIETNAM TELECOM





Ho Chi Minh, or "Uncle Ho," is considered to be Vietnam's great liberator. A famous line of his during the war with the French was: "You can kill ten of my men for every one I kill of yours, but even at those odds you will lose and I will win." Every major town in Vietnam has a Ho Chi Minh Museum. His body, which is on view in Hanoi at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, is sent to Russia once a year for maintenance.




Sometimes at Vietnam cafes a green tea chaser is served with your coffee.



This is the Pham Ngu Lao district in Saigon, an area popular with backpackers.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

The Temples of Angkor

Recently I read that when you take photos you will not remember the event as clearly as when cameraless. Though this might be true, looking over my recent photos taken at the temples of Angkor, I find they serve as a powerful reminder of what a magnificent place that is.
Like the pyramids in Egypt, the Grand Canyon, and Petra in Jordan, the Angkor Temples are a must-see for travelers in Southeast Asia. Located about 150 miles northwest of Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital, there are over 100 temples spread out over an area of about 400 square miles.
We bought a 3-day pass, and figuring out what to see and how to see it was a somewhat complicated matter, as can be seen by my well-worn map (photo above), color-coded to show different routes to take each day. Some visitors see parts of the site by bicycle, but for three days and a lot of area to cover we opted to hire a moto-trike driver, which worked out very well.

Monday, March 31, 2014

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital, is a wonderful little city, with a laid-back, artistic feel. Highlights include the Royal Palace, the National Museum, a great selection of restaurants (including many vegan options), and the not-to-be-missed sunset cruise on the Tonle Sap River.