Central Syria

The bus ride from Palmyra to Homs in central Syria wasn't too bad, until for some reason the other passengers in the rear of the bus where I was sitting decided they didn't like the breeze and closed up all the windows. It quickly became so hot and stuffy that I couldn't wait to arrive at Homs so I could get off the bus and get some fresh air. I can remember this same thing happening on buses in Turkey, except passengers would be smoking, which would add to the hot, airless feeling inside the bus. Homs is one of those towns not recommended by guide books that I like to visit for no particular purpose other than to simply wander around, relax in the parks, drink tea at the outdoor cafes, and basically just get a sense of the day to day life in the town. In 1959, Seyrig, the French historian, wrote of Homs, "The history of Emera [Homs] amounts to no more than a long career of obscurity from the middle of which emerges three centuries of remarkable opulence." And my Lonely Planet guide has this to say about the city: "There's little of interest in Homs, although it does have an interesting old souq and an agreeable atmosphere." That's true enough. The old market is well worth a couple of visits, and overall Homs is a pleasant place to explore for a couple of days.