About 7 and a half hours by train from Belgrade (heading northwest), Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, is smaller, quieter, and not as glittery. Likely due in large part to having lived in the United Arab Emirates for 8 years, I was a little surprised by the painting of a nude (photo above) in my hotel room. Never ever would you see a painting this racy in an Emirati hotel. Some other items of interest in beautiful Zagreb -- the inventor of the fountain pen, Slavoljub Penkala, was Croatian. Also, Zagreb is the first place I have ever heard of (and tried) a hempburger. At the same little restaurant, Green Point, on a Zagreb side street, if you show up in the evening just before the 9 pm closing time you can get a 50% discount, for example delicious seitan tortillas with vegan mayo for about $1.50. And I almost forgot to mention the Zagreb Museum of Broken Relationships, where you can see hundreds of various items such as clothes, writings, albums, even a bicycle, all relating to the breakup of relationships.
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