Fez

If Casablanca is Morocco’s economic center and Marrakesh the country’s artistic soul, then Fez represents the very essence of the country, “regarded with a certain amount of awe, perhaps tinged with jealousy by the rest of the country.” It’s a widely held belief among Moroccans that anyone born in Fez is “more religious, cultured, artistic and refined.” Located near the Middle Atlas Mountains, east of Casablanca and north of Marrakesh, Fez is hotter than the former and cooler than the latter. The city’s old section is Morocco’s first World Heritage site. It’s the world’s largest living medieval city and the biggest car-free urban environment on the planet. During our wanderings in the ancient souq (market) we would inevitably get lost in the huge maze of narrow streets and alleyways, eventually ending up outside the city’s walls where we’d make our way back to our hotel. This place, the Hotel Menzeh Zalagh, is a faded old resort past its prime and full of character with its colorful tile work, old marble fountains, Moroccan artwork, and balconies with mountain views.